How to Fix a Leaky Kitchen Faucet

Quick answer

Shut off hot and cold supply valves under the sink, identify where the leak shows (spout, handle, base, or supply connection), match your faucet type, then replace worn seals or cartridges—not by forcing handles tighter. Call a plumber for wall leaks, failed shutoffs, or cabinet damage.

A dripping kitchen faucet wastes water and can damage cabinets if the leak runs under the sink unnoticed. The repair path depends on location and faucet design—compression, cartridge, ball, and ceramic-disk types disassemble differently.

This guide covers reasonable homeowner repairs. For broader plumbing boundaries, see when to call a plumber vs DIY.

Where is the leak?

Take a photo before disassembly. If water appears on the wall or floor with no connection to the faucet body, stop— that may need a plumber.

Tools needed

• Adjustable wrench or basin wrench
• Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
• Allen keys (some handles)
• Flashlight
• Bucket and towels
• Replacement cartridge, washers, or O-rings (match your model)
• Plumber's grease (silicone-based, if recommended for your parts)

Most repairs need only basic hand tools—see our beginner DIY tool kit if you are stocking up.

Identify your faucet type

Look for a brand/model on the faucet body or original paperwork. Hardware stores carry common cartridges if you bring the old part.

Step-by-step: basic repair path

1. Shut off water — Clockwise on hot and cold valves under the sink. Open the faucet to drain remaining pressure.

2. Inspect under the sink — Dry the area and run water briefly (if testing before full shutoff earlier) to confirm the leak path. Check supply nuts and sprayer connections.

3. Remove the handle — Set screw often under a decorative cap. Note orientation for reassembly.

4. Access the valve body — Remove retaining clip or nut per manufacturer style. Pull cartridge or stem.

5. Replace worn parts — Swap cartridge, washers, or O-rings with matching parts. Clean mineral buildup with vinegar on non-plated surfaces if needed.

6. Reassemble without overtightening — Snug mounting nuts and handle screws. Overtightening strips threads and cracks cartridges.

7. Turn water on slowly — Check spout, handle, base, and supply connections for drips over several minutes.

Fix the aerator separately

A leak or splash at the spout tip may be a clogged or worn aerator. Unscrew the tip, clean screens, replace the gasket if cracked, and reinstall hand-tight.

Supply-line and shutoff issues

Signs of cabinet or hidden damage

• Soft, stained, or buckled cabinet floor
• Mold smell under sink
• Water trails on back wall

Address the leak source first, then dry the cabinet. Persistent wetness after faucet repair suggests a different leak path—or prior damage needing repair.

When to replace the whole faucet

• Body is pitted or cracked
• Multiple repair attempts fail within months
• Parts discontinued for your model
• Finish damage with internal corrosion

Replacement is often DIY for like-for-like swaps if shutoffs work—still within plumber vs DIY judgment if you're unsure.

Common mistakes

• Overtightening handles (doesn't fix seal wear)
• Mixing incompatible cartridge models
• Forgetting to turn off water
• Ignoring supply-line drips while fixing spout
• Using pipe wrench on finished faucet nuts (mar finish, round flats)

Bottom line

Locate the leak first, shut off water, match your faucet type, replace worn seals or cartridges, and test every connection. If the same sink drains slowly, see how to clean the P-trap. Faucet repair is often manageable; wall leaks, failed shutoffs, and repeated failures are signals to stop and get professional help.